The Quality of Gemstones

“I saw these same beads at a lower price somewhere else.”

That’s something we hear from time to time, so it’s important to understand that just as not all diamonds are the same, all beads are not created equal. There is a specific set of criteria used to judge the quality of diamonds and the other “precious” gemstones: rubies, emeralds and sapphires. Commonly known as the 4 C’s (cut, clarity, color and carat), they are rigid standards by which these stones are rated. The fifth “C”, cost, is directly related to the first 4. The general public understands the correlation and chooses the desired quality and therefore the price.

Unfortunately, when it comes to “semi-precious” gemstones, there is not an approved quality rating system. Each manufacturer/distributor uses their own designation to determine a gemstone’s value. The following are common designations applied by reputable dealers:

AAA = exceptional stone with excellent color, great cut resulting in lots of light getting through, the top rating for precious stones such as sapphires, emeralds, and rubies AA = top quality stone, great color, few if any visible inclusions, usually the best rating for semi-precious stones like citrine, amethyst and garnet A = good quality stone, very few inclusions, good color, transparent, has good cut that lets light through, good sparkle B = ok but not top color, transparent stone with minimal inclusions C = inconsistent color throughout the stone, visible inclusions, stone not as transparent, very little sparkle D = low value stone with major visible inclusions, rather dull as they are less translucent

In addition to these designations, there are several other factors that affect a stone’s quality and value:

Hardness - the harder the stone, the more durable it will be if used in jewelry

Finish or polish - a high polish aids light reflection from the surface of the stone, or refraction through the stone

Symmetry of the cut - is the shape even, are facets crisp, are edges neat?

Accuracy of drilled holes - are they straight, are they centered, do they go all the way through?

Enhancement - stones may have been: heated or irradiated to alter color or clarity; dyed to intensify color or uniformity; had surface fissures filled with oil, wax or resin to improve appearance; impregnated with resin or plastic to “stabilize” or harden to improve durability; bleached to lighten or change color; altered to impersonate another, more expensive

Clarity - some stones occur in several parts of the world and are in abundant supply; others have been discovered in only one or two places on earth and have been nearly mined out

Consumer demand - has the price increased due to fashion trends?

So, the next time you look at a strand of beads, don’t just look at the price. Evaluate the quality of the beads in terms of what you’ve just learned. You don’t need a degree in gemology, you only need to ask yourself one question… “Are these beads of the quality I want in my jewelry designs?”

New Design Elements

When we opened the store 4 years ago, the average price of sterling silver was $11-$13 per troy ounce. Today it's hovering above $30. While the reasons for it are explained in terms of commodities markets and the rise in foreign economies, the bottom line for us as bead store owners, and you as jewelry designers, means paying the price or using alternative materials. While sterling silver will always be a staple of fine jewelry design, and we will continue to carry a great selection, the popularity of copper, bronze, brass and other metals is increasing. As a bead shop that prides itself on customer service and on seeking out supplies for the latest jewelry trends, we're stocking more alternative metal products that will give you new creative choices. We have a large variety of chains and other components in copper, bronze, brass, silver-filled (which has a thicker and more durable layer of sterling silver bonded over a base metal), plated silver, gold, rose gold, copper and gunmetal, and aluminum. Many new books that demonstrate how to design and work with these materials are also in stock. So, stop in and see samples of necklaces, bracelets and earrings our creative design team has put together to inspire you and to give your jewelry wardrobe a trendy new look.

New Product Discovered in Tucson

Tucson started out COLD, but the beads were GREAT, and the selection plentiful! It was nice to see vendors we have gotten to know over the past 4 years, and to discover some great new products.

Chain is a popular design element in the fashion industry and there were hundreds to choose from. The next time you’re in the shop be sure to check out our new chain rack. There you’ll find a large variety of styles and colors, including gold-fill, sterling silver, solid copper, vintage brass, bronze, and plated gunmetal, black, silver, gold and copper.

The newest item on the market is “SilverSilk”, a totally new way of using wire in jewelry. Beautiful and strong, SilverSilk is knitted from wires of enameled copper that are nearly as thin as a human hair. SilverSilk is lightweight, incredibly durable, can be cut without fraying, and is supple to the touch. The permanently enameled non-tarnish copper ensures a long-lasting beautiful finish - joining the strength and beauty of metal with the fabulous feeling of knit. SilverSilk is machine stitched to perfection, cuts easily with wire cutters, holds its shape, and will take your jewelry designs to the next level.

We have a 3-strand version in silver, copper, and vintage bronze colors. Three needle round knit is a 1.5 mm wide round knitted wire created with three 32 gauge wires. This size is perfect for making “illusion” style necklaces, as it can easily be threaded through most beads. Use 2x2 crimps to hold the beads in place, then hide the crimps with crimp-covers...it’s that easy.

The second type we have is an 8 needle 3mm round chain made with 32 gauge non-tarnish enameled copper wire knitted around a 2mm bead chain. This knitted chain is durable, yet lightweight, and can be easily finished when combined with SilverSilk's custom end caps. Choose from one of the 9 colors we carry, cut it to the desired length (great for necklaces, bracelets, even earrings), add large-hole beads or embellishment of choice, then finish the ends by squeezing a custom end cap in place. Add a clasp and you’re done!

We’ll be working up some samples to give you ideas for adding SilverSilk to your beadbox.

New Year's Resolutions

It’s the time when most of us feel compelled to make some sort of resolution for the new year. Loose weight, eat healthy, exercise…you know the drill. This year, let’s resolve to do something really important. Here are some suggestions:

Get Organized – Just like in other areas of our lives, getting organized is the key to beading success in 2011. Take stock of your home inventory…for those of us who are avid beaders, we have enough beads and supplies at home to be called an inventory (you know who you are!). Do you know what you have? Do you gravitate toward the same colors and buy the same beads over and over? My advice: purchase some clear plastic storage bins and organize your beads by color and size. I have a bin for #15 beads, several bins for #11 beads and #8 beads (organized and labeled by color), and a bin for #6 beads. I have bins for drops, bugles, and other types of beads. I also have bins for threads and findings. When you begin a new project, you know exactly what you have and the supplies you need to purchase. And you don’t end up re-purchasing what you already have!

Finish Projects – Most of us have several (or more!) projects we’ve started and then put down to work on something else. It’s not that we have trouble completing projects, mind you, another new and exciting project just comes up! My advice: gather up all your started projects and decide if you want to invest the time to complete each of them. If you don’t, put the beads back into your inventory to use in another project. For those you do want to finish, put each in a separate ziplock bag with all the supplies needed to complete. Set a goal to finish one project a week or every two weeks, whatever your schedule allows. Work them in with new projects so that you don’t get bored.

Take a Class – There is always something new to learn in the world of beading. A new stitch, a new project, new colors and designs – there is always something to add to your beading repertoire. My advice: plan to take at least one class this year to update your skills. If you can, take a class with Cynthia Rutledge when she visits Let’s Bead! in April, or take a class or two with any of the other Let’s Bead! instructors. You’ll learn something new, have some fun, and meet some new people. And, after the resolutions are complete, you’ll still have time to exercise.

Beading & Baking

Beading and baking…sounds like two very different activities, but they have more in common than you think! Consider this: when you start a new beading project, you get out the instructions; when you make cookies, you get out the recipe. Back to the beading project: you get out your beads and make sure you have enough to complete the project; cookies: you get out your ingredients and measure what you need. Beading project: you get out the tools and supplies you need; cookies: you get out your mixer and preheat the oven. Then, you start beading and baking!

Why am I writing about beading and baking? Well, I’ve been helping my sister who has an in-home licensed bakery. She has been so busy with the upcoming holidays, I’ve been working with her to make hundreds of cookies to fill her holiday orders. OK, when I say hundreds, I really mean thousands! Her goal for the season is to make 10,000 cookies! 10,000! So, for those of us who got the creative gene, whether you are beading or baking, you are making something with your hands – so the end-product is irrelevant. And it’s an extra bonus when the product you are making tastes good!

Helping my sister has been fun, but believe me, it has been hard work! I go home with stiff knees and a sore back! How does she do this by herself the other 11 months of the year? Well, I guess when you love doing something you ignore the aches and pains it causes, just like we beaders often ignore the stiff necks, strained eyes, and carpal tunnel symptoms. So, has my sister offered me full-time employment? No thanks, I’ll stick with beading. (Visit my sister's bakery at www.holycannoli.com.)

Take Inspiration from Nature

Do you ever sit in your studio or at your home workspace feeling uninspired? Surrounded by supplies, but not sure what to make, or what colors to use, or even what colors go together? Just take a walk outside, or a drive in your car and get inspired!

Nature can inspire anywhere, anytime. That’s why I think it is a great idea to carry your camera with you whenever you are out – you never know when you might see something that will inspire your next great project. You may be walking along the canal trail and see a great texture in tree bark, or a pretty reflection on the water. You might be driving to work and see the most fabulous blend of greens, yellows, oranges, and reds in a tree changing colors. On the way to the bus stop yesterday, my daughter wanted me to run home to get the camera to take a picture of the pink and purple sky during sunrise! (I think she got the creative gene.) One of my favorite sites in nature this time of year is the bushes that are deep forest green near the roots and then, like water going up litmus paper, change to an intense shade of magenta and fuchsia at the tops.

I think fall is the prettiest time of the year, so I love to bring it into my studio and into my work. I’ve used leaves from an oak leaf hydrangea to make molds that I use with polymer or metal clay. Leaves with deep texture can make better molds than any you can buy in a craft store! When I see colors in nature that I love, I duplicate them in polymer clay (and remember to write down the recipe!). I try to combine the colors into a piece that evokes the same appreciation of the beauty of nature that I had when I was inspired. So, go outside and look around – nature will tell you what colors go together!

Learn From The Best

Have you ever taken a class from a nationally recognized instructor? You know, the ones that teach at the Bead and Button Show every year, or who plan fabulous “bead retreats” in exotic locations…If you ever get the opportunity to learn from one of them, by all means, sign up! I say this because I’ve taken a few of these classes, and I realize now how lucky I am to have learned from these very talented artists.

A few years ago, I had the opportunity to attend the Bead and Button Show in Milwaukee, WI. I signed up for several classes, just because I liked the projects, not because I knew anything about the instructors (I was a newbie at B&B, after all). One of the classes I selected was Millefiori Caning with Lisa Pavelka. I did not know who Lisa Pavelka was at the time – all I knew was that I lugged my pasta machine half-way across the country to take a class with her, and I had absolutely no experience with polymer clay. I walked into the classroom with my gear in tow, only to see rows of pasta machines on the tables for those students who “forgot” to bring one…

The all-day class flew by so quickly. I immediately forgot my irritation with the equipment because Lisa was so engaging, highly energetic, and best of all – fun! She shared her tips for caning and jewelry making throughout the day. She didn’t even get annoyed when I folded my clay incorrectly and created “mud” instead of the fabulous Skinner blend she was demonstrating (that I longed to make!). Did I know Lisa was a nationally recognized instructor with 20 years experience in crafting and polymer clay? No. Did I know she has written several books on crafting with polymer clay? No.

Last week I went into an arts and crafts store and saw a large selection of Lisa Pavelka’s products. She created her own line of craft products, from texture stamps and glazes, to foils and molds. At that moment it struck me: carrying that pasta machine all the way to Milwaukee was definitely worth the effort!